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by: Michael Slackman, New York Times 2006-5-16

THIS is my sweetheart," said Ahmed Fouad Negm as he gently kissed the dried head of a dead tortoise, patted its shell and tenderly put it away.

Mr. Negm was on the roof of his apartment building, high above the sprawling, chaotic, filthy, garbage-strewn neighborhood of Mokkatam, where he dispensed with formalities and introduced himself as a man who loved a tortoise.

"Glory for ..